Dream of France, through recipes

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France-based cooking teacher Susan Herrmann Loomis offers many attractive dishes for the cold months in her new book, “Plat du Jour”. Seasonal recipes are mostly dishes at the center of the plate, including wine-braised chicken with leeks and cream, scallops with mashed celery root, classic beef bourguignon, a stew of Basque lamb and sweet peppers, and even bites of vegetables like potatoes and chive soufflé and endive and leek gratin. A nice salad made with flat-leaf parsley for green vegetables, with olives and almonds, is one of the many suitable for the winter. The eggplant and tomato pie awaits another season. Simple and individual apple pies are part of the desserts to inspire the baker all year round. The recipes are accompanied by astute advice, in French “tips”. The recipe for the beef stew could use this one, telling the cook to put the pan-fried meat back into the casserole dish once the pan is ready for the oven, which in an assembly error he neglects to do.

“Dish of the Day: French Dinners Made Easy” by Susan Herrmann Loomis (Countryman Press, $ 30).

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