A Thanksgiving dinner that awaits France

3. Wash and prepare the vegetables and herbs. Scrape the dirt off the carrots, but don’t peel them. Pick a handful of celery leaves and combine with the remaining rosemary, plus thyme and parsley, place between 2 celery stalks and tie with string to make a bouquet garni. Roughly chop the remaining celery.

4. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

5. Set a large ovenproof saucepan over medium-high heat. Brush the salt and herbs on the turkey thighs. Add oil to the pot, then a turkey leg (it should sizzle) and cook, intact, until the meat is nicely browned. Flip the leg over – I use a flexible slotted spatula to get under the skin in case it sticks. Brown all sides, then remove from the pan and set aside. Repeat with the other leg. Add the carrot, celery, onion and shallot and brown lightly.

6. Add the bouquet garni to the pot, then pour in the red wine and bring to a boil. Put the thighs back in place, then add the reduced brown chicken broth. You want the liquid to rise a little higher than half the legs. Add the bay leaves and juniper berries and season lightly with salt and pepper. Heat until liquid is simmering; do not boil. After 5 minutes, put the pan in the oven, uncovered. Cook for 10 minutes, then cover the pan and reduce the heat to 250 degrees. After 30 minutes, check that the liquid is not boiling and turn the thighs. Repeat at 30 minute intervals, checking for liquid and turning the thighs, until the meat easily comes off the bone, 2 to 3 hours.

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7. Carefully remove the legs and set them aside. Remove the bouquet garni and the vegetables and discard them. Drain the braising liquid in a saucepan, bring to a boil over medium heat, skim, then reduce to a boil, skimming occasionally if necessary, until reduced by half. Taste, season if necessary. Too salty? Stir in the butter. Too fleshy? Add a little red wine or red wine vinegar. Put aside. Just before the meal, pour the braised liquid into the pot and reheat, without boiling, and gently add the turkey thighs. When hot, plate them and season with sauce, serving the rest on the side.

Brown chicken broth

In a basic chicken broth, you put the raw bones (carcass, thighs, necks, wings, etc.) in a saucepan, add vegetables, cover with water and simmer. A brown broth involves roasting the bones before you start. We see it more difficult – the roast takes about an hour, then there’s the pan to clean – but it produces a considerably deeper flavor, a nice dark fall color and more gelatin, which gives more to the sauces than you make. with. body – more wobbly. It intensifies wonderfully when you reduce it.


  • 2 onions
  • A handful of rosemary, thyme, sage and parsley
  • 6 stalks of celery
  • 4 garlic cloves, peeled
  • Fresh ginger, peeled and cut into 5 thin slices 1 to 2 inches long
  • 6 carrots
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 7 pounds of chicken bone and carcass, plus (optional) turkey neck and back
  • A spoonful (or two) of honey
  • Some splashes of white wine



1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees and place a large roasting pan on the middle rack.

2. Set a sauté pan over low heat, without fat or oil. Peel and cut the onions in half. Place each half, cut side down, in the pan and let brown slowly. After 5 minutes, take a look below one; if there is no color, increase the heat. Once the onions are golden brown (10 minutes? 20? The slower, the better), carefully remove them and set aside. Browned, onions have a deeper flavor and will enhance the color of the sauce.

3. Make a bouquet garnished with herbs and 2 celery stalks and tie with string. Roughly chop the remaining 4 stems. Place the celery, bouquet garni, onion, garlic, ginger, carrot and bay leaf in a large saucepan.

4. With a meat cleaver or large knife, roughly chop the bones of the birds. It’s okay if you skip this step, but chopping the bones exposes the marrow and more bone surface, resulting in more flavor when roasted. Add the chopped bones to a heated roasting pan. (If it’s hot enough, you won’t need any fat or oil.) Roast until the bones are golden brown on the bottom, 15 to 30 minutes, then flip, using a flexible spatula to lift the pieces from the pan without losing the golden skin. Repeat regularly until the bones are almost completely cooked. Brush larger bones with honey, for color and caramelization. Continue to brown, but with care – if the bones are burning, they are useless. Remove the bones and add them to the pan, over the vegetables.

5. Deglaze the roasting pan by placing it on high heat, pouring in the white wine to cover, bringing to a boil and scraping the golden bits from the bottom. Reduce to about 4 tbsp. Pour through a colander or sieve into a pot with chicken bones and vegetables. (If the pan or the reduction smell has burnt, skip this step.)

6. Fill the pot with enough water to cover the bones. Put on high heat and bring to almost a boil, then lower the heat to the lowest setting and skim. After 5 minutes, the liquid should be less than simmering. You don’t want bubbles, just a vapor. Continue to cook gently over low heat for 10 hours, or overnight, skimming occasionally, supplementing as needed.

7. Pour the brown chicken broth through a colander into a new saucepan, put over medium heat and slowly reduce, by at least half. (You can reduce further – the result will increase in intensity – but make sure you have at least 5 cups for the Madeira sauce and the braising liquid for the thighs.) Strain into a bowl. When completely cool, refrigerate.

Roasted turkey breast with Madeira sauce

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