The topic of this week’s review is theoretically what comes closest to the world’s best dining establishment that an epicurean loyal to Bangkok can access right now.
Opened a month ago at the 5-star Capella Bangkok hotel, Côte by Mauro Colagreco is an adventure of the three-star Michelin chef who has placed his restaurant Mirazur on the Côte d’Azur in the first rank of the 50 best restaurants in the world 2019. listing.
Here, on the banks of the Chao Phraya River, Colagreco named its 60 places Côte in homage to its culinary origin on the French Riviera.
The restaurant, with a panoramic view of the sparkling river, offers a sensation that combines gastronomic know-how and family warmth.
Perhaps to add a more folkloric vibe, the warmly lit dining room was energized by upbeat background music. It was flocked by a mixed clientele of business leaders, Western expatriates and affluent neighborhood residents.
Seasonal fish with Jerusalem artichoke, hazelnuts and truffle.
Côte offers a la carte options and set menus for lunch and dinner.
A three-course lunch set is priced at 1,500 baht without a wine pairing, while prices for seafood main courses start at 890 baht. A selection of cheeses from the Riviera costs 650 baht.
Guests are invited to opt for the carte blanche menu, 6,100 baht per person, which allows guests “the luxury of not choosing”. It’s a nine-course meal, available only for dinner, curated by the chef on the best produce of the day.
Côte’s cuisine is run by French chef Davide Garavaglia, a former chef at Mirazur.
Although following the same philosophy of the much revered Mirazur, all dishes are designed exclusively for the Bangkok business.
Leading imported ingredients from Europe are combined with top quality local produce to create seasonal haute cuisine dishes.
My a la carte dinner began with a selection of appetizers. They included a mini seaweed pie, a cod fritter and a shiitake macaroon with a center of black pudding terrine.
Hot-cold egg with cauliflower, caviar and horseradish.
A large loaf of free bread then followed. The bread, designed for sharing, is made according to Colagreco’s grandmother’s rustic recipe and to be enjoyed with her signature olive oil concoction.
The next dish, Mediterranean red shrimp ceviche, was the first of nine courses. It’s a delicate and refreshing unification of plump citrus-dried shrimp, paper-thin radish, pomegranate and grapefruit sauce. The sauce was a delicious and addicting blend of savory broth and the characteristic bitter taste of citrus.
The hot-cold egg is a signature treat at Mirazur. Served in an eggshell, it’s a delicious play of temperatures and textures through layers of creamy yolk, cauliflower mousse, caviar and horseradish mousse.
The squid and lard seared in the flame are the protein centerpieces of the third course: squid with ajo blanco with coconut, parsley and lardo.
The tender squid came bathed in coconut milk gazpacho soaked in fragrant parsley oil and topped with a thin translucent slice of rosemary-dried pork fat.
Mediterranean red shrimp ceviche with grapefruit.
A rendering of seared Rougie foie gras with beetroot vinaigrette, which came next, was impeccable.
The plump and elastic and juicy blue lobster from Brittany played in the next dish. The lightly sweet crustacean was enhanced with black trumpet mushrooms, marigold florets and buttery frothy hollandaise sauce.
Then there’s a lip-smacking collagen-rich dish made with cod tripe, snow peas, shellfish pil pil sauce, and burnt garlic oil.
The next dish was a John Dory filet, Jerusalem artichokes – mashed and fried – toasted hazelnuts and freshly grated French black truffle.
Connoisseurs of pigeons are promised tears of joy by a display of poultry breast, leg and liver.
The breast and leg, cooked medium rare and preserving its tender meat wonderfully, are completed with mulberry jam, endives and a small portion of barley risotto.
The pigeon liver pate arrived on a separate plate on crisp, paper-thin gingerbread cookies.
Desserts were presented with white chocolate, dill meringue, frozen pomelo and osmanthus sorbet; and an airy coconut cream espuma with raspberry balsamic vinegar and a white chocolate disc.
A package of nine glasses of wine to accompany the nine-course dinner costs 2,900 baht per person. Reservations are recommended especially on weekends.
Pigeon with mulberry jam, endive and barley risotto.
White chocolate with dill meringue, frozen pomelo and osmanthus sorbet.