Noma, four times winner of the title of World’s Best Restaurant, reopens today in Copenhagen - like a wine bar with burgers.
You should normally reserve a table of months in advance at Noma, while the new incarnation is not a reservation. Prices are also accessible. A hamburger starts at 125 Danish kroner ($ 18.40) takeaway, which may seem like a lot outside Denmark but matches local costs and compares to 2,650 crowns for the usual menu of around 18 dishes. (The burger is 150 crowns at the table.)
Fans of Redzepi's creative gastronomy don't have to worry. The wine bar is a pop-up in the gardens of the Noma restaurant, which should open in 1 ½ to 2 months after the coronavirus shudown. Redzepi says his goal is to help kick-start social life in Copenhagen.
Photographer: Ditte Issager
«Notre rêve pour cela est de rendre les gens actifs, de recommencer à sortir», a déclaré Redzepi lors d'un entretien téléphonique. "C’est le but principal. Nous voulions trouver quelque chose pour montrer que tout le monde est le bienvenu, c'est pourquoi nous avons décidé d'ouvrir le puissant burger. La réponse a été incroyable. » Ne vous attendez pas à un burger gourmand aux truffes et au caviar. "Ce doit être un hamburger tel que nous le connaissons, donc nous faisons un cheeseburger", dit-il. «Mais ce que nous avons dans notre boîte à outils, c'est que nous avons les meilleurs ingrédients, la meilleure qualité de viande. Les petits pains de pommes de terre seront frais tous les matins, et la viande sera hachée trois fois par jour à partir de bœuf nourri à l'herbe, et nous coupons à la main des oignons biologiques. De petites choses comme ça font une grande différence. » Des options végétariennes et végétaliennes seront également disponibles.
The new space can accommodate 65 people and will be open from Thursday to Sunday, at 1 p.m. at 9 p.m. Beers will be 50 crowns and wine from 95 crowns per glass and 425 crowns per bottle. Isn’t Redzepi concerned about long queues? A similar experiment in Mexico found queues starting at 4 am for seats 14 hours later, he said.
“No, we hope for them,” he laughs. “But you have to understand that Copenhagen is not London. We are a city 10 times smaller than London and we have no tourists. The city is so calm. I’ve never seen him so calm. “
The formal restaurant will reopen with about half the number of guests, says Redzepi, with one seat instead of two.
“A lot of people on the first serve would stay there, in the garden or in the living room,” he says. “Anyway, I honestly wouldn’t expect to take two seats. Where would the guests come from?
“Our government has given us a chance to fight to overcome this problem (coronavirus). People do not have to wear masks and the restrictions are not paralyzing. We must have two square meters per guest and there must be one meter between the tables. These are the biggest ones, as well as strict sanitation rules that you have to follow, but we did it anyway.
“I don’t know how things will change. We are one of the best restaurants in the world and we open with burgers and ice cream for the kids. How can it be even more different? We do the most laid-back thing of all the good restaurants. Later, we’ll have some wine bar snacks, oyster salad, vegetables. This is a new experience where the door is open to everyone and feels pretty exciting. ”
He says he is trying to determine if it will be possible to have a casual, walk-in dining area at Noma next to the restaurant.
“I’m staying feel like cooking and enjoying the best of the seasons and putting it on the plate, but maybe Noma can be more than that too.
“If we can find a way to merge the Noma that was with Noma from the Covid-19 era, it’s exciting.
“The restaurant industry will be hit extremely hard over the next year. Most restaurants in Europe have stayed afloat with government aid, which makes a huge difference. But once everything is open, people will be afraid to go out and there are no tourists in town. The margins are already thin. It will be very bad. There is going to be a lot of unemployment in our profession. Everyone will certainly have to think very differently. “
Richard Vines is chief food critic at Bloomberg. Follow him on Twitter @richardvines and Instagram@ richard.vines.